A brand's story : Atelier Wen by Extropian

There is a lot to be said about a buyers’ perception. Once the marketing message is engrained in our minds, there is little that we can do about it. This situation has happened many times, and we are not only talking about the watch scene. A relevant example would be Japanese consumer goods, whether we're talking about cars or TVs, the reputation for their quality is outstanding. Even if rivals from other countries have more heritage and features, you can be sure that these objects made in the Far East are going to be better assembled and long-lasting.

Of course, we are talking about today’s perception, but it wasn’t always like that, in fact, a few decades back, Japanese products were seen as low quality and cheaper alternatives to their American and European counterparts. The main reason is because they needed time to refine their production, and now, well, here we are.

Why is all the above relevant? Well, Atelier Wen is going for a similar approach. These days, just like Japanese products in the past, Chinese products have a questionable reputation. They are seen as cheaper alternatives and dismissed right from the start. It will take time to change our views., but Atelier Wen is completely focused on doing so. 

It is a great story, join us to discover it.

How it all begins:

The idea comes with creating a brand that can expose Chinese heritage and craftsmanship.  It makes sense really, when you think that China does have a great legacy in watchmaking, it just needed to be revived.

When we spoke with Atelier Wen a few years back, we talked about designs and ideas, the passion on watchmaking was contagious. Also, there is an advantage to starting a brand in China because they are one of the biggest suppliers for watch parts in the world. This allows the brand to benefit from knowhow, options and prices that would allow them to be competitive in the luxury arena, more on this last point shortly.

As a side note the name Atelier Wen is a mixture of the French word Atelier which means workshop and Wen in Chinese which means culture. 

Who made it happen:

This time, instead of inspiration we are going to use the word friendship. Inspiration is key, the moment when an idea strikes, but friendship seems a bit more powerful, it is more personal. Robin, who started early in his collecting journey, has enjoyed several prestigious positions regarding watchmaking such as Execution Expert in China’s Horologe Association. His knowledge is extensive and with the help of his friend Wilfried, the duo seemed ready for the challenge.

Coming back to his counterpart Wilfried, he brings the entrepreneur part of the brand, commanding the Mandarin language which could be a barrier for the project, and attachment to Chinese culture, it’s a win-win combination to launch a successful brand.

What is the brand’s philosophy?

The idea of Atelier Wen is deeper than just creating a watch brand. The philosophy lies in bringing an alternative to Swiss luxury watches but coming from China. Seems like an impossible statement when you think how ingrained Switzerland is established in the watch scene but let us remember just like Japan with electronic goods, watchmaking not so long ago had a much stronger presence in France and Britain. What we mean is that perception can rapidly change, and Atelier Wen might be onto something special.

Another important point that the duo is trying to change is the expectation of quality goods coming from China. Just like we mentioned at the beginning of the review, we are in this cycle that feels that China is only making disposable goods at a lower quality. In recent years the low-quality aspect still exists but more refined options have appeared in the market. There is a price to be paid of course, but with a vast offer of components, movements and case manufacturers, the possibilities are endless.

The style and design

Atelier Wen has a mixture of contemporary and modern designs. The idea is to celebrate Chinese tradition and craftsmanship. Spectacular details can be found on the case backs, hands, lugs and crowns. It shouldn’t be any different than this as Chinese culture can be potentially one of the richest ones in terms of design. From fonts, ceramic to battle instruments, the ornamental nature of the country in the far east is vast as its territory.

That said, the design trends found on the watches are subtle, which means that they are well integrated with the design. Case backs are the primary source to express the artistry by accommodating dragons and other mythological creatures. The details are exceptional. Same happens with the face of the watch. Even though they are more traditional looking, we can still find geometric figures which come from past inspiration, Ceramic techniques mixed with blued hands. All blend with a great execution, quality is present, and it is very noticeable.

We wouldn’t say that Atelier Wen’s watches are theme watches. They feel more of an interpretation or evolution on how a watch from China would look like. Not because they are using elements from the past, but because of the artisanal approach they have. They are not mass-producing watches in large quantities; they are doing objects that can be appreciated through time.

Who is their target audience?

This is a point that we have debated quite a bit. The design is unmistakable Asian but you can see lots of traces of traditional Swiss watchmaking. Their newest integrated bracelet watch is a nod to Swiss pieces from the 70’s but with that Atelier’s Wen twist. What this means is that their target audience can be anyone who appreciates watchmaking and well-made objects.

It is not a watch made only for a particular region, but more of an export on what you can do with only Chinese supplied parts, of course always focusing on quality.

We would say that anyone could appreciate one of Atelier Wen's watches, from high end collectors to people who are starting in the hobby. There is something for everyone and its uniqueness is what makes it more attractive.

The current line of products?

Unlike many other brands, Atelier’s Wen catalog is simple but also very cohesive. It is not divided by use case or caters for a specific person; it is driven by design which is something very refreshing.

The initial or main collection was Porcelain Odyssey. This entire collection is completely retired which means that if you missed it, well you really did.

The Porcelain Odyssey 

As the name suggests, the Porcelain Odyssey brings traditional Chinese style dials that remind us of those elegant vases which can be traced centuries ago.

The watch itself is very elegant but also fit for casual wear. The case measures 39mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.7mm including the crystal. The beautiful leaf hands are long and elegant and the sub seconds dial at 6 ‘’breaks’’ the porcelain dial nicely. One thing we enjoyed from the Odyssey is that the printing looks foggy and artisanal, to clarify, we mean this in a good way. It gives that hand-made look which is appreciated. For the heart, we have a regulated SL-3006 high beat movement which is based on the ETA 2824.

The collection is divided into 2 different models: JI and Hao. JI which is represented by a royal blue dial, Hao which to us is the more traditional combination of white with green, blue, red or purple accents.

The Perception

It is hard to talk about a watch that has been discussed in depth in many watch media, but it is also a pleasure as the execution is outstanding.

The Perception is a very important watch for Atelier Wen, it is the second launch for the brand, and they are up their game, not only in terms of quality but in terms of intricate design.

Coming to the watch itself, The Perception is the take of the brand for an integrated sports-chic offer, and we have to say that the design is one of a kind. The 904L stainless steel case measures 40mm in diameter with a 47mm lug to lug which means it can be worn by a large variety of wrists. With a thickness of 9.4 and a screw-down crown adding 100m of water resistance, the watch is ready for everything. The Perception works on the DANDONG SL1588 automatic movement which has been regulated and includes a tungsten rotor for better winding efficiency, pure luxury.

All of the above is well and good but it is the dial and the bracelet that for us steals the show. The bracelet has a lot of attention to detail, it tapers from 22mm to 18mm and has individual chamfered edges creating this nice effect when hit by light, it is well executed. The dial is another part where most of the time is spent, it is a hand-crafted guilloché piece made by the only Chinese master craftsman Cheng Yucai. Each dial is painstakingly done by hand and the results are something that cannot be found in this price bracket, they are truly spectacular.

The Perception comes in a variety of dials and materials, below you can find the usual suspects:

Perception Hong (25 pieces): an innovative watch for sure, made together with the Revolution crowd, the Hong not only includes a fiery red cherry dial, it is also made in its entirety of Tantalum, a material that is rare and difficult to work with. The Hong will surely become a unicorn in watch collecting circles.

Perception x Wristcheck (100 pieces): this collaboration with Austen Chu (a.k.a Horoloupe) brought a new version of the Perception. The green emerald or jade dial as it has been described in the watch circles, looks special and tamed compared to some of the limited editions launched this year. The body is now made of grade 5 titanium which gives the watch not only lightness but also durability. With only 100 made, it is unlikely you’ll find one in your average watch gatherings.

Perception Càn (100 pieces): taking inspiration from the name, Càn means brightness and splendor, and that really is translated by the lovely yellow dial of this particular Perception. Again, being a limited edition, the Perception Càn is made of grade 5 titanium and comes with a grey rubber strap. The watch is also limited to 100 pieces.

New Watch Release Alert:

Perception Mù: Marked as the first non-collaborative limited edition, the Mù has some large shoes to fill. The new perception includes a stunning purple dial and a full titanium case and bracelet. One novelty is that once the watch is purchased, automatically the buyer will enter a draw where the 3 lucky winners will receive a full Tantalum Mù instead of the titanium expected version. We believe that this will be one of the most good looking Perceptions to date.

What is coming?

It would be a great surprise also if the Odyssey comes back, perhaps as a 2.0 version, as it could make the brand offering more compelling. That said, we are aware that these are more artisanal pieces and not mass produced. As an example, there are less than 60 people in the world who can make handmade Guilloché dial, this is why production might not increase with the demand. It is quite a bit of work.

What we also expect is that Atelier Wen will continue to do high quality watches at a modest price, the Perception is a big jump from the Odyssey but very well justified as per the features that includes.

We are looking forward to novelties from Atelier Wen in the upcoming year and I am sure that there are some ideas already cooking. We find the concepts brilliant as well as the execution. It feels that they are really operating their brands as they intended to, taking that reputation of Chinese goods higher. In no time we will enjoy a different approach with Swiss equivalent quality at a more affordable price. We are sure that we are ready for it.

More information at www.atelierwen.com

Article written by Robbie and Watches